It’s a glorious summer’s morning on Royal Avenue and there’s a buzz in the air. A huge cruise ship has just docked, spilling thousands of tourists on to the streets of Belfast. They come from all over the world – from New York to New Zealand – and they all have one thing in common. They want to see Belfast; this town they have heard about all their lives; this city whose name has resonated over the decades for all the wrong reasons, like Beirut, or Baghdad.